
Where can I get parts?
The first step is knowing what you need. If you do not have your machine's original documentation getting an illustrated parts list is a good place to start. The first step on that path is to identify your Gilson snowblower. If the tag is missing or illegible contact me with some pictures and the numbers stamped in the engine shrouding, usually MODEL TYPE and CODE. From that information I can usually determine what you have.
With part numbers we can now accurately seek what you need. Documentation will provide the original Gilson part numbers and some of those numbers are still widely cross referenced. The last word on checking availability is to search the LawnBoy numbers. Contact me with the numbers you need and I can cross reference and check availability.
For OEM parts the Gilson Snowblower Shop has partnered with M&D Mower. to provide OEM parts when they are available. When I search a part I will provide links to simplify ordering. M&D also supplies engine and Peerless transmission parts.
With the Gilson legacy well into it's 3rd decade many gaps have developed in what is offered for OEM parts. My objective has been to close those gaps wherever I can. On the parts page you will find reproduction and replacement parts for the most common needs. Many machines that were plagued with discontinued parts are now highly serviceable. These parts come from a mix of commercial and custom sources, many are exclusive to this site.
From time to time I acquire machines that due to incompleteness or
overall condition simply will never be running machines again. These
machines get parted down to support surviving machines in my
collection. Over time I have accumulated surplus quantities of some
items including many that have not been available for years. Let me
know if you are in need of a discontinued Gilson snowblower part. All
inquiries are handled on a case by case basis.
Consider keeping your eyes open for a parts machine. Remember that
since Gilson built many private brand machines the decals and color
may not match. You should be able to get a complete machine minus
the engine for well under $100. Depending on what you need for parts
this can be a great bargain. Just visit local dealers to see what
they have in their "graveyards".
Do not under estimate generic parts sources. If a bearing fails many are common items you can get
at a local bearing supply house look in your yellow pages under BEARINGS or POWER TRANSMISSION then bring your old parts in
for matching. The same holds true for gears, many are standard
profiles, you may need a local machine shop to add a key-way or size
a bore. Ask the clerk at the bearing shop, often they know of small
local shops that will do small jobs like this on a walk in basis.
Other items such as spacers, pins, grease fittings and such can be
found at a good local hardware store.
Finally in some cases you may need to enlist a local machine shop or
welder to fabricate or repair a part. Try to find a small machine
shop. Large shops have a lot of overhead and usually can't do this
sort of work at an affordable price. What you want is what is
referred to as a garage or basement shop, usually a one man operation
and in some cases part time. Bring in the damaged part and any other
parts that the new one will have to be fit up with.
Engine parts or service can be obtained from nearly any power
equipment dealer or online. Many
common needs
can be found here.
If you go in to buy parts be sure to bring all of
the numbers stamped on the engine.
Paint
Machines up through about 1977 were beige and red. Afterwards the
scheme switched to black and red. Although the part number remained
the same over the years I can tell you that the red color did vary
over the years. Although called red (and sometimes refered to as
crimson red) the appearance was mainly orange with different biases
towards red over the years.
I do not have paint codes for custom mixed finishes.
COLOR
| GILSON #
| SUBSTITUTE
|
CRIMSON RED
| 13255
| DUPLI-COLOR #DE-1607 CHEVROLET ORANGE-RED ENGINE ENAMEL
|
BEIGE
| 6250
| RUSTOLEUM ALMOND #7770
|
BLACK
| 3018
| RUSTOLEUM SATIN BLACK
|
Wizard Red (Probably Plymouth and Senator too)
| -
| RUSTOLEUM REGAL RED
|
SILVER
| -
| RUSTOLEUM MATTE NICKEL #7277 (Drift breakers, control rods and linkages)
|
PRIMER
| -
| I generally use a gray spray primer. It overcoats well and is less obvious than red when the inevitable scrapes occur.
|
Samples photograped under same lighting.
|

Factory original #13255
|

DUPLI-COLOR #DE-1607
|

What kind of oil should I use?
What you use for crankcase oil in your 4 cycle (Gilson) snowblower
has become a complicated question. Most engines are permanently
marked with a suggested oil for winter use. That recommendation has
changed over time and oil technology has also advanced. Many older
engines suggested SAE 10W oil for winter use. Along the way it became
SAE 5-20. I'm sure there have been other variations as well. Either
one of these oils will do a fine job in moderate winter temperatures.
The problems start in extreme cold. Petroleum oils begin to change
states when you start getting below -10F. There are 2 important
properties you can read up on if you like they are "POUR POINT" and
"PUMPING TEMPERATURE" the bottom line from my experience and research
is that when you get into sub zero Fahrenheit conditions conventional
petroleum oils no longer perform as expected. They begin to thicken
and eventually certain components begin to solidify. When this
happens in an engine that relies on splash or slinger lubrication the
lubricant can get whipped into a froth and put the engine at risk.
Exactly what temperature this will happen at depends on your exact
brand and grade of oil. For me the simple solution has been to switch
to 5-30 synthetic such as "Mobil-1". 5-30 Synthetic is now
recommended as a year round lubricant on the B&S Website. The
synthetic products have a much wider operating range with pour points
that run 20-30 degrees lower than comparable petroleum oils.
HOW YOU CHOOSE TO APPLY THIS INFORMATION TO YOUR ENGINE BE IT
VINTAGE OR LATE MODEL IS ENTIRELY UP TO YOU. CONSULT YOUR ENGINE
DOCUMENTATION AND RESEARCH THE TOPIC AS NEEDED.

How do I determine when my Gilson was
built?
According to Gilson Service Bulletin #116 Dated December 4, 1978 It
gives the following explanation;
In late 1975, we changed to a nine digit serial number.
Example:
Serial number 8365B1 569
- 1st digit - calendar year 8=1978
- 2nd through 4th - calendar day of the year 12/31=365th day of
the year
- 5th digit - manufacturing assembly line B
- 6th digit - workshift of the day 1st shift
- 7th through 9th digits - consecutive serial number of the unit
manufactured that day on assembly line B. (serial numbers run 001
through 999.
Each day of manufacturing has a repeat of the last three digits, but
the calendar day (digits 2 through 4) changes. This system allows us
to identify year, date, assembly line, shift, and time of day of
manufacture by serial number.

What is the horsepower of my engine?
Here is a
table that picks those numbers apart.

How do I determine when my Briggs and
Stratton engine was built?
The CODE number on the engine determines the exact date
it was built. Here is a very simplistic way for you to determine the
build date. Follow these easy instructions:
We will use a date code of 6905297 for our example.
- The first two digits are the year of manufacture. In this case
it is 1969 ( 69 ).
- The next two digits are the month of the year. In this case it
is May ( 05 ).
- The next two digits are the day of the month. In this case it
is 29 ( 29 ).
- The last one or two digits tell us the plant and assembly line.
- This engine was built May 29, 1969.
The MODEL number describes your basic engine, displacement,
carburetor style, horizontal or vertical shaft, and basic output
shaft features. The TYPE specifies any unique features, in
some cases they can be unique to your particular piece of equipment.
As discussed the CODE number identifies when and where the
engine was built. It is very important to bring the MODEL, TYPE,
and CODE numbers with you when visiting a dealer for parts.
If your engine predates 1965 this
site will help you date the engine.
How do I determine when my Tecumseh engine
was built?
Locate the ID numbers on your engine they may be stamped in the
shroud or in the form of a sticker. Find a number marked as
SER and/or D.O.M.. In the example 8105C
- 8 is the least significant digit of the year of manufacture.
You're on your own to guess the decade let's say 1998
- 105 is the day of the year, 105 being April 15th
- C represents the line and shift on which the engine was built.

How can I use my wheel pins?
Many models used these pins with round bails for securing the wheels
to the axels. By moving the pins the machine could be made to
freewheel. By moving one pin the machine could be rendered one wheel
drive for easier handling in light duty.
NEVER MOVE THE WHEEL TO THE END OF THE SHAFT AND PIN IT THROUGH THE
OUTBOARD HOLE! THE WHEEL MUST ALWAYS REMAIN UP CLOSE TO THE AXLE
BUSHING. THIS IS REQUIRED TO KEEP THE AXLE CORRECTLY POSITIONED IN
THE MECHANISM, FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS WARNING WILL ALLOW THE AXLE TO
WANDER FROM SIDE TO SIDE AND CAN RESULT IN DAMAGE TO BOTH GEAR DRIVE
AND UniTrol MACHINES.
This has been such a peristent problem that Gilson began adding retaining rings to the axles so the wheels could not be moved out of true location. Read more and order rings for your machine here.

Why doesn't my machine throw snow very
far?
A frequently asked question from the owners of Gilson and other
machines concerns throwing distance. There are many things that
enter in the throwing distance including the machine, operator
technique and natural conditions including the snow and wind.
- If your blower belt is damaged or a poorly chosen substitute
for an OEM belt then it may be slipping. It's always best to use the
OEM belt. It is worth the few extra dollars.
- Your engine should always be running at full speed while blowing snow. It is possible for the governor to be disturbed and not deliver full speed. A small engine tachometer and tools are needed to check and adjust this. It is interestng to note that most 8HP Gilson 2 stage machines were goverened at 3800 RPM, "No Load Speed". There was a period in the later 1970's - early 80's when the engines were set to 3500 RPM. This includes model 55134 about which performace concerns are common. Those 300 RPM make a dramatic difference in performance especially on models with the 10-1/2" impeller. I will let you draw you own conclusion.
- The most serious cause of poor throwing distance is a damaged
impeller. Through heavy use or from ingesting debris the impeller
blades can become deformed and reduce performance severely. See these
examples of
impellers
- My Operating
Tips page offers more ideas about getting the most from your unit.

Snowblower versus Snowthrower
Last but not least is the age old question of snowblower versus
snowthrower. The 2 terms are often used interchangeably and there
probably isn't a definitive answer to it, but here's mine;
- SNOWTHROWER: Also called a single stage machine. The snow is
gathered by a high speed auger. When the snow reaches the centerpoint
it is hurled upward by the auger and thus THROWN. There are fewer
moving parts in these machines but they are all moving very fast so
damage can be very sudden and severe. This design is almost always
used in tractor attachments because of its shorter overall size.
- SNOWBLOWER: Also called a dual stage machine. The snow is
gatherd by a low speed auger and fed back to a high speed impeller
that BLOWS the snow up the chute. The lower speed auger is less prone
to sudden damage and is generally protected by shear pins. A worm
driven auger is preferable to a chain driven one. A worm drive will
have a small gearcase between the auger leads griven by a shaft
coming through the center of the impeller. A snowblower is preferable
under almost all conditions. Remember that you will get the greatest
throwing distance when you throw to the side that continues the arc
generated by the direction of impeller rotation.
-
That's my definition if I'm asked. Actually I have a number of
Gilson brochures and it gets even fuzzier. One year they are blowers,
the next throwers and in another year they avoid the terms altogether
and say "powerful machines" and other such phrases. So as I say,
nothings definitive.If you go to Webster.com and type snowblower it will refer to
snow thrower for the definition. The definition they provide is
essentially that of a single stage machine!

What about belts?
I recommend that you get factory replacement belts for your
machine. The OEM belts were engineered as part of the machine design. How a belt twists and bends
as well as the work it does all enters into the design. Keep in mind
that since they are special belts they are not always even inch
sizes. A 1/2 inch difference can mean a blower that slips if the belt
is long or doesn't stop if the belt is on the short side.
The cross section profile as well as the wrap of the belt are also important. While most of these belts are what would generally be termed 1/2 inch wide or L4 experience has shown that there is quite a range in the cross section of generic belts. This causes the belt to ride higher or lower in the pulley grooves and this changes the effective length. A belt of the proper length but having the wrong cross section will not work correctly.
Getting a generic belt to fit and function correctly can be a game of V-belt roulette. In the end the Factory belt will be your best buy. When you consider that most belts will last for a decade or more the slight price premium is a bargain. For your convenience I have gathered the belt ordering information of most common Gilson snow blower belts. You can find them on the parts page.
It's always good to own a spare set of belts. You never know when you will need one and you don't want to be counting on the local shop to have it on hand. Stored in a clean dark dry place they will keep indefinitely.

Can I add or replace an electric starter?
Getting an electric starter for your Gilson is not as straight forward as one would hope. Before you can add or replace a starter there are a few things you need to know. Most of this is in reference to Briggs & Stratton engines. The Tecumseh situation is similar.
Does your flywheel have a ring gear? In order to use an electric starter your flywheel must have a gear that runs along the circumference. For most of the "Gilson era" this was not necessarily standard equipment. For many years 5 HP units had to be factory ordered with or without the electric starter. Along the way the ring gear became standard on more and more engines and electric starters became a field (dealer) installed option. The gear will be found on the back side of the flywheel and you may have to remove a shroud panel to get a good look.
What is my ring gear made of? Early units had steel ring gears that meshed with brass starter motor pinion gears. Latter model units used an aluminum ring gear and nylon pinion. Engine documentation is ambiguous on this so you need to check. Also to my knowledge all currently available new starters are of the nylon pinion configuration meaning that an aluminum ring gear is needed. This often means a new and costly flywheel and it's installation is part of the project.
These starter motors can have a hard life. To make them weatherproof they are sealed. This means they have limited heat dissipation. They should never be used to coax a stubborn engine to life. They are meant to crank the engine and be turned off. Abuse can lead to things like melted brush holders. Since they are sealed and have carbon brushes the carbon residue is trapped in the motor. Despite being sealed, moisture can enter and promote corrosion.
Motors were supplied by several sources over the years making repair parts difficult to pinpoint, if they are even available. Some electric motor shops will do what they can.
Genuine and aftermarket motors were discontinued many years ago. New Old stock motors are exceptionally rare on Ebay. My best advice is to visit local small engine shops with your engine MODEL, TYPE and CODE numbers. If you can get a handle on the presence of a ring gear and the ring gear material that will be a big head start. With a little luck you will find a retired engine with a good starter and make a deal.
I do get some working starters that are still operable. I sell them "as-is", FINAL, no warranty, no returns, and price them accordingly. I provide a video of the starter cranking on my bench. If after everything I wrote you are still interested, contact me. These are handled on a case-by-case basis.

Where is my air cleaner?
Snowblowers do not have air filters. Normal operating conditions are
essentially dust free. Your air intake is ducted such that it is
shielded
from flying debris and the muffler serves to preheat intake air. Air
filters
would also be prone to icing.

Where do you keep all of your
machines?
The major storage is in the form of Gilson Castle, 2, 40 foot storage containers and a 10" X 40" covered bay in between them. One container houses the working collection, the second container contains a few dozen Gilson projects in waiting. The center bay shelters large items and units on death row.