What is the horsepower of my engine?
Here is a table that picks those numbers apart.

How do I determine when my Briggs and Stratton engine was built?

The CODE number on the engine determines the exact date it was built. Here is a very simplistic way for you to determine the build date. Follow these easy instructions:

We will use a date code of 6905297 for our example.

• The first two digits are the year of manufacture. In this case it is 1969 ( 69 ).
• The next two digits are the month of the year. In this case it is May ( 05 ).
• The next two digits are the day of the month. In this case it is 29 ( 29 ).
• The last one or two digits tell us the plant and assembly line.
• This engine was built May 29, 1969.

The MODEL number describes your basic engine, displacement, carburetor style, horizontal or vertical shaft, and basic output shaft features. The TYPE specifies any unique features, in some cases they can be unique to your particular piece of equipment. As discussed the CODE number identifies when and where the engine was built. It is very important to bring the MODEL, TYPE, and CODE numbers with you when visiting a dealer for parts.

If your engine predates 1965 this site will help you date the engine.

How do I determine when my Tecumseh engine was built?

Locate the ID numbers on your engine they may be stamped in the shroud or in the form of a sticker. Find a number marked as SER and/or D.O.M.. In the example 8105C

• 8 is the least significant digit of the year of manufacture. You're on your own to guess the decade let's say 1998
• 105 is the day of the year, 105 being April 15th
• C represents the line and shift on which the engine was built.

How can I use my wheel pins?

Many models used these pins with round bails for securing the wheels to the axels. By moving the pins the machine could be made to freewheel. By moving one pin the machine could be rendered one wheel drive for easier handling in light duty.

NEVER MOVE THE WHEEL TO THE END OF THE SHAFT AND PIN IT THROUGH THE OUTBOARD HOLE! THE WHEEL MUST ALWAYS REMAIN UP CLOSE TO THE AXLE BUSHING. THIS IS REQUIRED TO KEEP THE AXLE CORRECTLY POSITIONED IN THE MECHANISM, FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS WARNING WILL ALLOW THE AXLE TO WANDER FROM SIDE TO SIDE AND CAN RESULT IN DAMAGE TO BOTH GEAR DRIVE AND UniTrol MACHINES.

This has been such a peristent problem that Gilson began adding retaining rings to the axles so the wheels could not be moved out of true location. Read more and order rings for your machine here.

Why doesn't my machine throw snow very far?
A frequently asked question from the owners of Gilson and other machines concerns throwing distance. There are many things that enter in the throwing distance including the machine, operator technique and natural conditions including the snow and wind.

• If your blower belt is damaged or a poorly chosen substitute for an OEM belt then it may be slipping. It's always best to use the OEM belt. It is worth the few extra dollars.
  • More about Belts
  • Common Gilson Belts
• Your engine should always be running at full speed while blowing snow. It is possible for the governor to be disturbed and not deliver full speed. A small engine tachometer and tools are needed to check and adjust this. It is interestng to note that most 8HP Gilson 2 stage machines were goverened at 3800 RPM, "No Load Speed". There was a period in the later 1970's - early 80's when the engines were set to 3500 RPM. This includes model 55134 about which performace concerns are common. Those 300 RPM make a dramatic difference in performance especially on models with the 10-1/2" impeller. I will let you draw you own conclusion.
• The most serious cause of poor throwing distance is a damaged impeller. Through heavy use or from ingesting debris the impeller blades can become deformed and reduce performance severely. See these examples of impellers
• My Operating Tips page offers more ideas about getting the most from your unit.

Snowblower versus Snowthrower
Last but not least is the age old question of snowblower versus snowthrower. The 2 terms are often used interchangeably and there probably isn't a definitive answer to it, but here's mine;

• SNOWTHROWER: Also called a single stage machine. The snow is gathered by a high speed auger. When the snow reaches the centerpoint it is hurled upward by the auger and thus THROWN. There are fewer moving parts in these machines but they are all moving very fast so damage can be very sudden and severe. This design is almost always used in tractor attachments because of its shorter overall size.
• SNOWBLOWER: Also called a dual stage machine. The snow is gatherd by a low speed auger and fed back to a high speed impeller that BLOWS the snow up the chute. The lower speed auger is less prone to sudden damage and is generally protected by shear pins. A worm driven auger is preferable to a chain driven one. A worm drive will have a small gearcase between the auger leads griven by a shaft coming through the center of the impeller. A snowblower is preferable under almost all conditions. Remember that you will get the greatest throwing distance when you throw to the side that continues the arc generated by the direction of impeller rotation.
• That's my definition if I'm asked. Actually I have a number of Gilson brochures and it gets even fuzzier. One year they are blowers, the next throwers and in another year they avoid the terms altogether and say "powerful machines" and other such phrases. So as I say, nothings definitive.If you go to Webster.com and type snowblower it will refer to snow thrower for the definition. The definition they provide is essentially that of a single stage machine!

What about belts?
I recommend that you get factory replacement belts for your machine. The OEM belts were engineered as part of the machine design. How a belt twists and bends as well as the work it does all enters into the design. Keep in mind that since they are special belts they are not always even inch sizes. A 1/2 inch difference can mean a blower that slips if the belt is long or doesn't stop if the belt is on the short side.

The cross section profile as well as the wrap of the belt are also important. While most of these belts are what would generally be termed 1/2 inch wide or L4 experience has shown that there is quite a range in the cross section of generic belts. This causes the belt to ride higher or lower in the pulley grooves and this changes the effective length. A belt of the proper length but having the wrong cross section will not work correctly.

Getting a generic belt to fit and function correctly can be a game of V-belt roulette. In the end the Factory belt will be your best buy. When you consider that most belts will last for a decade or more the slight price premium is a bargain. For your convenience I have gathered the belt ordering information of most common Gilson snow blower belts. You can find them on the parts page.

It's always good to own a spare set of belts. You never know when you will need one and you don't want to be counting on the local shop to have it on hand. Stored in a clean dark dry place they will keep indefinitely.

Can I add or replace an electric starter?
Getting an electric starter for your Gilson is not as straight forward as one would hope. Before you can add or replace a starter there are a few things you need to know. Most of this is in reference to Briggs & Stratton engines. The Tecumseh situation is similar.

Does your flywheel have a ring gear? In order to use an electric starter your flywheel must have a gear that runs along the circumference. For most of the "Gilson era" this was not necessarily standard equipment. For many years 5 HP units had to be factory ordered with or without the electric starter. Along the way the ring gear became standard on more and more engines and electric starters became a field (dealer) installed option. The gear will be found on the back side of the flywheel and you may have to remove a shroud panel to get a good look.

What is my ring gear made of? Early units had steel ring gears that meshed with brass starter motor pinion gears. Latter model units used an aluminum ring gear and nylon pinion. Engine documentation is ambiguous on this so you need to check. Also to my knowledge all currently available new starters are of the nylon pinion configuration meaning that an aluminum ring gear is needed. This often means a new and costly flywheel and it's installation is part of the project.

These starter motors can have a hard life. To make them weather proof they are sealed. This means they have limited heat dissipation. They should never be used to coax a stubborn engine to life. They are meant to crank the engine and be turned off. Abuse can lead to things like melted brush holders. Since they are sealed and have carbon brushes the carbon residue is trapped in the motor. Despite being sealed, moisture can enter and promote corrosion. For all of these reasons I have stopped selling used surplus electric starters. It's just not worth the aggravation.

Motors were supplied by a number of sources over the years making repair parts difficult to pinpoint, if they are even available. Some electric motor shops will do what they can.

My best advice is to visit your local Briggs and Stratton dealer with your engine MODEL, TYPE and CODE numbers. If you can get a handle on the presence of a ring gear and the material that will be a big head start. You can then explore new and used options that they may have available.

Where is my air cleaner?
Snowblowers do not have air filters. Normal operating conditions are essentially dust free. Your air intake is ducted such that it is shielded from flying debris and the muffler serves to preheat intake air. Air filters would also be prone to icing.

Where do you keep all of your machines?
The major storage is in the form of Gilson Castle, 2, 40 foot storage containers and a 10" X 40" covered bay in between them. One container houses the working collection, the second container contains a few dozen Gilson projects in waiting. The center bay shelters large items and units on death row.

Where do I Live?
I live in southern Maine (USA), about 10 miles inland, from the Atlantic Ocean. I get a mix of coastal and inland storms, or as the meteorologist have started calling them ,"winter weather events". The Coastal storms have a tendency to include sleet and freezing rain and sometimes end as plain rain, making for a heavy snow pack. Other storms are of the inland variety and include deep snow with blowing and drifting. Our average winter snowfall is 71 inches. Our snowiest winter (1970/71) brought 141.5 inches of the white stuff. In 1979/80 we receievd a scant 27.5 inches of snow. Our most challenging winter storms are those that end as rain, followed just a few hours latter by a long cold spell. If you don't clear it away in time you'll need a pick axe! Freezing rain can coat trees, utility lines and everything else with 1/2 inch or more of ice resulting in fallen limbs, wires and treacherous driving. Just plain snow generally is handled in stride. I clear a little over 10,000 square feet per storm of driveway and paths.